S/Y Babette Sails to the Caribbean

S/Y Babette sails to the Caribbean, carefully avoiding the Pirates, and then sails back again to Norway.

The crewmembers: Shannon
About the crew:
See the complete profile

See more of our photos at www.flickr.com
(Want to read the posts in chronological order?)

Saturday, December 31, 2005

New Year's "Lobster" Barbecue on the Beach


Sounds good, doesn't it! That's the plan. Lots of lobster are ordered. All the Scandinavians notified. And bring your parafin lanterns!

But old Caribbean saying says:"All lobster tastes like chicken in de dark." Ours did. Very good barbecued chicken! Apparently all the lobster went to the restaurants, none left for us. But all's well that ends well. We have a crew barbecuing chicken, serving potatos, salads, the works. There's torches in the sand, parafin lanterns and even a generator-powered light up in a tree. Kids all over the place, one big table with mostly Norwegians, another mostly Swedes. And us. With our Taube song-book of well-known Swedish songs we fit right in. Some of our "oldest" sailing pals on "Sulamitt" and "Blue Marlin" are there. We also meet a "new" sailor, a Swedish solo-sailor who's been around and has quite a few tales to tell. Lots of good food, tall tales, slightly off-key singing.
We're among those who leave before midnight; there are stories of boats hit by fire-works... On the foredeck we watch the black night explode into color. Port Elizabeth launches a huge battery of fireworks from the pier. Boats respond with red flares and ship's horns. We have our brass horn out too.
Champagne in the lantern-lit cock-pit.

HAPPY NEW YEAR'S, 2006!

2 comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Fra Korsjøen 2 ønsker vi en vel overstått jul og de beste ønsker for det nye året og seilturen videre!
Hilsen Hans Jørgen, Sigrid og Aase, Marie og Øystein Kibsgaard

Saturday, December 31, 2005 7:52:00 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Happy New Year to the two World Navigators!

Congratulations on your successful crossing of the Atlantic. It must have been a glorious view to see the shimmering lights of Barbados looming in the distance on the morning of Dec 19th, after 17 days at sea. I remember a similar heart-warming experience on first seeing the Hawaiian coastline from the air after a 6-hour flight across the Pacific.

Enjoy your time in the Caribbean. The high today in Toronto is minus 5 degrees C!

Andy & Lyudmyla

Monday, January 02, 2006 5:51:00 PM  

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Friday, December 30, 2005

A swim in Friendship Bay


We sit, slightly cramped, on the sweaty plastic seat-covers, the sweltering red van is slowwwwly filling up. But the Bus-ride to Friendship Bay is a mere Carib$1:50, so: "No complain!"

From the main road there's a near vertical cement road down to the bay. The path along the bay a narrow sand fringe, with the surf rolling right up to the tree trunks. Hope it's high tide!
A swim in the 28 degree water is hardly cooling off, but there's a slight breeze in the circle-round Friendship Bay, a smaller version of "our" Admiralty Bay". A few catamarans are anchored up here. Plenty of elbow room!

We try out the "Friendship Bay Resort"s beach-bar/restaurant. The bar has hanging chairs, swinging in the sea breeze, the surf is lapping at the tables. Almost. The ocean view is through dark beams and palms. Very idyllic. The food is good but not much, but on very big plates. And with a very big view.

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Thursday, December 29, 2005

"Mother Christmas": Why Knot?

Right in the middle of things, down-town Port Elizabeth, a little red jeep is parked. Christmas lights and a Norwegian flag-sticker decorate it. And "a skip and a jump" further on a rope-letter sign asks "Why Knot?" Under it knotted and macrame'ed items and a book are for sale. Beside them a blond tanned woman is macrameing and conversing: Mariann!

She is a woman with a story. She and husband/captain, Peter, sailed away one day, from Oslo, in their home-made Colin Archer ketch, "Fredag" (Friday), and made it as far as Union Island here in the Grenadines. There it sunk on a reef. I won't spoil all the fun for you by telling all their story. Just recommend to you the book by "Fredags" captain, Peter Røren, "Kakerlakkenes Død" ("Death of the Cockroaches") It's a tounge-in-cheek title refering to the last "passengers" to leave a sinking ship. But I will reveal the "happy ending": "Fredag" was raised! Both Peter and Mariann have settled here in Bequia where they prefer to live their laid-back lives.

And Mariann is now "Mother Christmas" for all the Norwegian (Scandinavian!) blue-water sailors arriving here after their, usually first, ocean passage. This year Mariann's garden was filled to the brim with over 200 "vikings", their floating homes filling "Admiralty Bay". Mariann's "Bequia Christmas" is renowned in sailing-Norway. We missed that, being in Barbados, but will "make up" for it with a great Scandinavian lobster-barbecue on the beach at New Year's Eve!

We just have to procure the lobsters!

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Wednesday, December 28, 2005

The Norwegian Christmas Colony


We have Colin Archer ketch, "Christiania"s guiding light with us all night. They slip into the quiet waters of Bequia's "Admiralty Bay" about an hour ahead of us. There are probably about 100 boats in the bay, of all nationalities. Including a big "Christmas Colony" of Norwegian sailboats, probably the biggest concentration of Scandinavian boats outside of Scandinavia. On our way in we pass "old" friends, Norwegian "Blue Marlin, with Sondre and the twin 6-yr olds and Swedish "Blue Marlin", the "Bonanza" boys, sailing from Brazil, "Agape", our brave "Gambian" sailors, "Regina"(Swe.), last seen in the Canaries, the Bergen architects in "Blå", and others.

Clearing in is easy. Like an errand at the Post Office. The book store has a Bequia courtesy flag. And lots of good Caribbean literature. From Carib-kiddie books, cook books to Naipaul.
We pick up a mooring right outside the Gingerbread Hotel and Cafe, with popular dinghy dock. Very handy. A nice view of the bay and "Babette" through the palms at this strand-side cafe. One of a string of little cafes and hotels lining the narrow sand walkway into the small town of Port Elizabeth. We meet "Blaa" with daughters, grandkids at the cafe and have some good barbecued chicken. Next time we'll try the cakes!

The evening is spent on Norwegian "Blue Marlin". They had a good crossing over, 21 days from Gran Canari to St. Lucia. So the horror stories about tropic storms and the ARC regatta might be a bit exaggerated. They had their own fishing yarns to tell. We saw the evidence of their big Blue Marlin catch (15 kilo!) The head was still around as a souvenir. It was great to see them all again!

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Tuesday, December 27, 2005

Barbados closed

Our great plans to rent a car and see the island are dashed. No cars. And Bridgetown is pad-locked shut. So we check-out of Barbados.
It's the national holiday:" Christmas-on-a-Sunday,-so-let's-take-Tuesday-off". Everyone seems to be out renting a car. None left for us. So, now what? We sail away.

"Christiania" is jut a half-hour ahead when we slip the moorings of the Barbados Yacht Club, and, once more, sail into the sunset. Rows of threatening dark clouds line the horison. They slip into brilliant fool's gold cloaks as the sun sinks into them. The waters are dead quiet, not a ripple. But gradually the night's true self is revealed. the wind picks up and we push out the mainsail boom. More wind, more from behind, and we pole out the genoa. Soon we're roaring along like a runaway frieght train. The winds are up in the 20's, sometinmes over 30knots. We are in the sixes, sometimes doing 7 knots, two or three more with the current. The seas are confused, giving my stomach a confused feeling, too. It's just an overnighter, but it feels as tireing as a week at sea! This is Caribbean sailing?

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Monday, December 26, 2005

Bank Holiday Barbecue

Beach day! After lugging the diesel jerry cans pr. dinghy, across beach and Yacht Club,over highway. Fill. And back, I get an hour at the beach. And Oernulf changes the oil filter. And everyone is happy.
Later we dinghy in to enjoy the "Barbados Yacht Club" (annual?) Bank Holiday Barbecue. Plates are loaded with bean salad, green salad, pasta salad and rice, baked potato, garlic bread. And then a steak is slapped on top of it all! Little green tables fill every bit of shade from the big leafy tree. And they're all full of families enjoying the great food. We're stuffed to the gills.
And then we have some coconut cream pie.

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Sunday, December 25, 2005

Christmas lunch on the Beach

"Christiania", with newly arrived crew-member, Jarle, and daughter, Ebba, and "Babette" roll our dinghy's onto the beach of the (closed-for-Christmas) "Yacht Club". A picnic lunch! Slices of cooked ham (Babette) and sandwiches from Christmas Eve dinner left-overs (Christiania) are the main courses.

The little black birds are boisterously eyeing our spread from the dense leafy thicket above. The now four kiddies are back and forth, sandy and soaking from the sea, grabbing pop and sandwiches between swims and sand-castles.
Our "beach landings" with the dinghy are more dignified lately.

Still, a bikini is definitly a practical apparell for this water-craft.

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Saturday, December 24, 2005

"Little Drummer Boy" at St. Patrick's

Christmas Eve. Baby-blue skies above, turquoise waters all around. The heat is sweaty hot already at 8am. Do I miss the snowy Norwegian Christmas? Reindeer, sleds, jinglebells...?
Hmmm. let me think.

More like: Sleety snow and slushy roads turning to treacherous ice on the steep slopes. Icey, gusting north-winds chilling bundled up shoppers in the dark winter streets.
Don't think we'll complain about the weather here! What we miss is family, friends, being at home making Christmas.

Here we find the St Patrick's Cathedral on the Bay Road, just beyond the BoatYard. There's a 6pm mass and it's jam-packed with Bajan families. It's a great mass, beautiful and swinging liturgical songs, a sincere and jolly black priest and a friendly, mostly white, congregation. When the priest decides he wants to sing "The Little Drummer Boy" for all the little boys at mass today, the band and the congregation join in, in a slightly muddled rendition. When a little girl runs up saying it's her mommy's birthday we all sing "Happy Birthday...Dear Mommmmmy"

After church we walk the 10 minutes back to town, to the "Waterfront Cafe" where we've reserved a table. The view is towards the inlet and the Christmas-lit town square beyond. A jazz group is playing inside and the boats tied up here on the dock are swaying gently to the music. Merry Christmas!

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Friday, December 23, 2005

Caribbean sunsets and Christmas Carols

Tomorrow is Christmas Eve and I'm typing away at the Norwegian summary of this sailing logg. Ørnulf is filling "Babette's" water-tanks, 30 liters at a time, making several dinghy trips to "The Boatyard" and back. We pay them, at "The Boatyard"US$20 a day for use of the dinghy dock, and $2.50 for water.

In the evening, as the sun takes a dip into the turqoise sea, we have a little "Madeira Cake", dug up from deep in the stores where its been hiding. A glass red wine, some Christmas Carols on the flute in our lantern-lit cock-pit. A cooling breeze in the warm dark evening.

1 comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hei dere to!
En liten julehilsen fra Rauli. Denne 2.juledag er det sol og knall blå himmel, et par kuldegrader, men sne kan vi se langt etter...
Har nettopp lest oppsummeringen av turen deres så langt, så utrolig spennende!
Ha en fortreffelig julefeiring på Barbados!

Monday, December 26, 2005 3:03:00 PM  

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Thursday, December 22, 2005

Drowned cat joins The Barbados Yacht Club

Our Scandinavians friends on "Agape" and "Veto" have deserted us, bound for "Scandinavian Christmas" at Bequia. So we and "Christiania" move over to the moorings of the "Barbados Yacht Club". They have an offer of one week's complementary membership. There is a club-house with bar and breakfast/lunch restaurant. A shower (one for women, one for men) A beach, with bar, tables and chairs under a very convenient huge, leafy tree. Not tall, but with a big horisontal spread. And full of curious little black birds. There's no dinghy landing, so one just pulls up on the beach. Sounds simple, right?

Our first try: disaster! The surf is just a ripple, so we row the last bit. Almost ashore this little mini-surf tips just over the side of the dinghy. And drenches me, waist and down. Well, how does this harmonise with the "dress code" in this posh yacht club? Good entertainment though, I'm thinking, for the gin-and-tonic, lawn-chair crowd under the shady tree.
But not a problem. We meet a friendly face who kindly directs us to the showers. It's our first real shower, with lots of hot running water, since San Sebastian, La Gomera, the 12th of November: one month and 10 days ago!

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Wednesday, December 21, 2005

Bar-B-Q'ed everything

On Broad Street the shops are full of Christmas glitter and lights, the streets full of people with bags and parcels. In the evening it's dark, but t-shirt-warm. Though the dress code here is more dress and heels, suit and tie, very elegant. "Cave,Shepard" is a Bridgetown Harrods, and Broad Str. is a sort of Bond Str. of London. Only it's 99% black.

We have a cafeteria lunch at the Cave, Shepard department store with the hoards of Christmas shoppers. A popular spot, the line snaking out into the frames and knick-knacks department. No Shepard's Pie, but barbecued everything seems to be what's good here.

And, yes, they do have Christmas lights in the palm trees.

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Tuesday, December 20, 2005

"Communicado" again!

A good night's sleep! With nobody shaking you avake every three hours. Lovely!
The day melts away in various errands and the cybercafe. We enjoy reading e-mail from family and friends now that we're "communicado" again.

In the evening we go out to the dark, cavernous "Boatyard". Mostly night-club, with certain yacht facilities. For a price. At 8pm the restaurant seemed closed, dark with whistling, screetching bats swooshing about: Spooky! The bar was mostly empty, just one boat-crew, it seemed, in the whole huge complex. But somehow they must fill up, because, later, disco music blares out over the anchored sailboats into the wee morning hours.

We walk a couple "gaps" and find a cosy, but expensive"lobster"restaurant, "Lobster Alive". A little room, thatched palm ceiling, open on to the beach. There were outside tables,too. Friendly service.They aren't really lobsters but crayfish, bigger than any of the lobsters I've seen. We settle for catch-of-the-day and gambas. The jazz band, keyboard, bass and trombone, playing standards is pleasant to listen to. So we have some coconut cream pie and listen some more.

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Monday, December 19, 2005

Land O'hoy!! BARBADOS

At 3am Oernulf sees the lights of Barbados. On my watch the lights turn into low, gentle hills, first blue, then growing greener as we approach. "Oh, the green and pleasant land.." They call the verrry British Barbados "Little Twickenham", I hear.
We raise the Barbados flag with its "Neptune" three-pronged spear on yellow and blue. And the Q-flag. This yellow flag, once indicating The Plague on board, now a sign of a boat that must clear immigration and customs.

Just before rounding South Point on the home stretch who do we see ahead, on our port? A wooden, "Colin Archer" ketch, all sheets out. In the binaculars a red circle on their sail, with R10 inside it. It's "Redningsskjøyte 10", (Coast Guard 10), 100 year old "Christiania" with its young crew on board! Hurrah!
Nice to have a chat on the VHF radio (a working channel). We agree to tie up outside of her at the huge commercial dock's customs quay in Bridgetown. The large Colin Archer boat can better manage the concrete walls designed for huge ships.
Clearing in, in three stages, including health office, went very well. They all seemed in cheery Christmas-y moods! The health office form was chock-full of questions like:

[_] "Does anyone on board have The Plague?"
[_] "Has anyone died on board?"

and other similar not-so-cheery questions. (We answered "no" to all of the above, in duplicate.)

After checking in one unties and goes to "Carlisle Bay" to anchor. "Babette" and "Christiania" leave in tandem, still tied together, with the three kiddies, Syver, Frigg and Ask doing our "Flekkefjord" puzzle. So, when we untie, mid-waters, we find we've acquired three new children! Hey, done this!
Anchoring goes well. We're "old hands" now. Soon the dinghys are on the water. And our "new kids" have already flown the nest and are off to town. We take a little trip to "terra firma" too. A hamburger for Ørnulf, an ice cream for me. And a jug of ice water.

But first we sit in the cockpit a bit. Half contemplating the crossing, half dozing. Well, we did it. Crossed the Atlantic Ocean. It went well, and why shouldn't it have. We've had fair weather all along on our five month journey so far. Some haven't. We've always checked the weather forcasts, waited for fair winds. We've never had hard dates to meet or delivered someone at airports. That's helped.

The crossing went well. The days seemed short and the nights long. Some of the 12-hour daylight has to be used to catch up on sleep. The work of sailing can, periodically, take some time. Still Ørnulf read two(!) books, as did I. And I did my Spanish. We fished dorados and baked bread. The mid-days are so hot any energy wilts like a flower with no water. And we try to drink enough liquids to keep us going. And exercise! Our boat-made stretch-thingy is well-used now! It's the every-three-hours night-watches that take their toll. We may use a different system on the way back. But we intend to keep a night watch! All in all, we can't complain.

We have 24 hours to catch up on sleep.

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NORWEGIAN SUMMARY: Babettes ferd mot Karibien

Torsdag, 7 juli: Det er en fredfull sommers morgen i Flekkefjord. Vi kjøper ferskt brød fra et ennå ikke åpnet bakeri og så kaster vi loss fra Tollbodbryggen. Vi setter seil, mot Karibien!
Ut fjorden, et siste blikk på byen, skinnende hvit i morgensol. Den minker stadig mens de grønne åsene vokser. Ut Hidrasund, rett vest mot Skottland. Som i de mange Shetlandsturene våre før.
For et silkeseilas! Seks knop på flat hav, Nordsjøen fra sin beste sida. Sjøfugl tegner sirkler i lufta over oss, og delfiner runder bauen. Om natta konkurrerer lysene på oljeplatformene med stjernehimmelen.
Naturen er rundt oss til alle kanter, men det er bare halve sannheten. Som med de fleste langturseilere erfarer vi at alt blir gjort i siste liten, forsinkelsene er mange. Halve Nordsjøseilaset blir brukt til å lese bruksanvisninger til alle de nye elektroniske installasjoner som ble montert helt til dagen vi dro. Også det nye "Wind-Pilot" vindroret ble utprøvd først i Nordsjøen.

LOSSIEMOUTH I SKOTTLAND
En 2 1/2-dags seilas tar oss til Lossiemouth i Skottland. Vi dupper, kjører sakte frem i turkis blått vann, og venter på høyvann. Vår første "bikiniseilas"! Sola steiker og små hval, niser, leker rundt båten.
Nær Lossiemouth, i Covesea, får vi besøke Mary Covenden, den over 90 år gamle mor til "Sirdølen", Kate Tjomlid. Vi får låne hennes mye brukte datamaskin ("Glad jeg lærte å bruke den da jeg var yngre, 79 år"). Vi får høre nyheter fra verden; det som vi først trodde var mimringer fra krigen visste seg å dreie seg om T-bane bombingene i London, den 7. juli, dagen vi dro fra fredelige Flekkefjord.

The Caledonian Canal
Et herlig avbrekk fra havets bølger får vi i de fredelige kanaler og innsjøer som skjærer seg tversover Skottland. Det lange vannet, Loch Ness, skulle skjule sjøormen, "Nessie". I lave tåkeskyer og yr er det ikke helt sikkert på om vi ikke så den... Slusene tar båtene først opp sine trappetrinn til Fort Augustus. Og så ned igjen med "Neptunes Staircase"'s åtte sluser til slutt. Det gjelder å ha kontroll over de lange fortøyningstauene mens vannet virvler og tar kraftig tak i alle båtene mens det fylles og tømmes med tonnevis av vann.

SKOTTLANDS VESTKYST
Tidevann og sterk strøm nedover kysten av Skottland og Irland er noe vi må lære oss å kjenne. For å rekke inn i neste havn på riktig tidevann må vi av og til opp i fire, fem tida. Men det er flott med ni, ti knopps fart over bakken, når det er bare det halve i vannet! Tåke og yr er det på vestland her som hjemme, og radaren er god å ha. Vi lærer dens finesser etter hvert.

ISLAY
I vind og blåst ankommer vi Port Ellen på øya Islay, den 17.juli. Den lille øya er kjent for sine syv distillerier, sine torv-luktende whiskeyer. Vi besøker en i byen, Bowmore, fra 1768 og får en omvisning. Bowmore har også en sirkelrund kirke av samme alder. Det sies at den er rund for at ikke djevelen skulle kunne finne en krok å gjemme seg i.

IRLAND
Vi venter på været på Islay, men så er det til pers. Opp klokke 04:30, ta to rev i seilet og så gi seg i kast med Irskesjøen. Mot Bangor, Nordirland. Seilaset mot Irlands grønne åser og enger går strykende. "Babette" er kommet til et helt nytt land; så langt vest har vi aldri seilt før.

CARLINGFORD LOCK
Vi får en rendezvous der nord- og sørirland blir delt av grenseelven, Newry. Det er herlig å være oppvartet av gjester hos familien Carville i Warrenpoint, Nord-Irland. Horisontale golv som ikke hopper er bra. Peg Carvilles kokekunst himmelsk.
Båten ligger i nærmeste marinaen, Carlingford Lock, i Republic of Ireland (sør). Det er en kort kjøretur over grensen til Warrenpoint. En usynlig, umerkbår grense, der det før var væpnete kontrollposter. Et synlig fremskritt mot fred, om ting synes å skje sakte.

REPUBLIC OF IRELAND, KINSALE
Vi sklir rett sør langs en smaragd-grønn kyst. Snart er vi fortøyd i Kinsale, nær Cork, i sør. Kinsale er en fargeglad småby, en "Flekkefjord" som barn har gått løs på med fargestifter. Der er live musikk fra torv, pub og fortauskafeer. Stedet er en magnet, med sine mange gode restauranter. Vi hører en "Django Reinart" guitar-duo som kjenner godt til den norske "Hot Club de Norvege". Vi hører på en gruppe barn som entusiastisk håndterer feler, trekkspill, trommer. De synger og danser tradisjonelt irsk, der de opptrer som gatemusikanter. Herlig å se!
Byene Waterford og Cork er vi innom, alt for kort tid! Men det ble en tur i krystallfabrikken i Waterford der hvert glass er håndblåst. Souvenirer ble dessverre ikke kjøpt. Passer litt dårlig i en seilbåt som skal seile hjem om Karibien!

BISKAY-BUKTA
Fra Kinsale tar vi spranget uti den beryktede "Bay of Biscay". Den er grunn, og er kjent for sterke og skiftende vinder. Vi setter seil 13.august, klokke 11, med kursen videre sørover mot La Coruna, i Spania. Vi tar Biscay'en på dens ytre vestgrense, ut i Altanterhavet, og får en fin seilas. Nøn dagers stille slik at Ørnulf får håret klipt og jeg får steke pannekaker. Som vi spise med pisket krem og blåbærsyltetøy. Midt i Biscaya.
Om natta har vi ikke måne for tida; men vi har delfiner, sterneskudd og hele melkeveien som leder oss stadig sørover. Vi får en sterk kuling på slutten, men som medvind. To båter måtte taues til land, av ulike årsaker, den siste natten. Selv er vi glad for å komme innunder land til smulere farvann.

LA CORUNA
Det er en stille, gylden morgen og vi seiler forbi "Hercules Fyrtårn", verdens eldste, helt fra Romertida. Det er en søndagsmorgen, vi glir inn og fortøyer trygt i den svære marinaen. Palmetrær og skinnende hvite balkong-fasader er badet i sola. Kirkeklokkene kimer. Virkelig! Velkommen til Spania!
Nå legger vi ulltrøyer og og oljehyre vekk, sola steiker! La Coruna er en stor, fin by med lange smale "restaurant-gater", et svært fersk-mat marked, store torv og travle mennesker. Det er artig å utveksle "skrekkhistorier" fra Biscay med de mange andre langturseilere her. Nå er vi på tur!

SØR LANGS SPANIA OG PORTUGAL
Videre sørover, langs kysten av Spania og Portugal er farvannet preget av tildels sterk vind, mye tjukk tåke og fiskegarn. Fiskegarn uten noe særlig markering. Vi tråkler oss igjennom i tåken med god hjelp av radaren. Stilt riktig, i smult vann er den riktig flink å "se" eventuelle flaggmennene til garnene. Men garn rundt propellen fikk vi, også.
I tillegg var der mye skogbrannsrøyk. Mens New Orleans sank i sumpen i USA og var på alles lepper var de svære furuskogene ved Finisterre i Spania, og langs Portugals kyst også erklært katastrofeområder.
Vi kom bort i brannslukninger i ulike havner. Der fløy småfly i vannoverflata og "scoopet" opp noen tonn vann for å dumpe på flammene i åskanten like ved. Vi husker særlig Figuera do Foz i Portugal. Her måtte vi "kappkjøre" mot brannslukningsfly på vei inn mot marinaen. Marinapoliti holdt oss tilbake mens flyene stupte mot elveinnløpet. Så fikk vi startsignalet: "Fortere!", ropter han, mens vi kjørte allerede i toppfart, fattige 6 knop. Trygt i marinaen fikk vi følge med flyenes stup mot elven, ett fløy under bybroa!

SANTIAGO DE COMPESTELO
Innnover i landet kom vi oss også, med buss og bil. I Spania var vi en tur til "pilgrimsbyen", Santiago de Compestelo. I middelalderen var byen den tredje helligste plass i hele den kristne verden, rett etter Roma og Jerusalem. Og pilgrimer fyller byen den day i dag. Uten at vi så Ari og Martha Louise...
De kommer med sekk, stav og rosenkrans vandrende fram til den imponerende katedralen. Vi kom fram om kvelden med buss og taksi, og fikk mirakuløst nok plass i Dona Esters fem-rom "Pencion con Encanta". En riktig sjarmerende liten pensjonat i gamlebyen, rett bak katedralen. Så tok vi oss en måneskinnstur langs trange steinlagte smug til den store åpne "Steinhuggerplassen". Galiske sekkepiper ljomet fra en arkade; luter og spanske gitarer fra en annen søylegang. Det er nærmere midnatt og strengemusikkensemblet stiller opp i full renessansemundur: svart og rødstripete fløyelsdrakter. Trette vandringsmenn, og kvinner, har stablet sine sekker og staver rundt søylene. Fullmånen lyser på grimasene til gargoyler og helgener hogd i stein, en gang i middelalderen. Den gamle klokkens hule klang ligger i lufta når vi vandrer tilbake til Dona Esters Pencion med sine rene, strøkne lakener, og dusj med rennende varmt vann. Er vi kommet til himmelen?

PORTUGAL
I Portugal fortøyer vi i Viano do Castello. På grunn av røyken fra skogsbrannene like ved må vi først skalke lukene og gjemme oss inni båten. Røyken velter nedover åssiden mot byen. Siktet forsvinner i svart røyk, store hvite flak daler ned på "Babette", som varme snøflak.
Herifra tar vi, en dag, buss inn til Porto, langs de delvis svartsvidde furuskogene. Byen Porto får alltid en spesiell plass i våre hjerter. Gammelmodig, med sterk karakter, forfallent og forførende vakker. Portugals arbiske aner er synlige i steinlagte gater, de syrlige mønstrer, fliselagte fasader, gjerne himmelblå, både høyhus og kirker. Portvinens hjemmeport, med de mange vinkjellere langs elvebredden, de gamle trefraktebåtene for eikefatene, klar til å seile regatta.
Smugene i gamlebyen, imellom de høye husene er mørke, trange og bratte. Det er i et slikt smug vi finner familie-restauranten som serverte "Fado" sang med sin bacalao. Melankolsk sang med sterk patos. Den er hviskende lav og ljomende sterk med gjenklang fra de høye murhusene i de mørke smug. Her var det bare fem, seks bord, to opptatt med de som sang, og bestemor og barnebarnet. Gitaristene spilte stødig sang etter sang, uten å fortrekke en mine. Kvinnene vekslet mellom mørke sjal for de sorgmodige sangene, hvite for de muntre. Etter maten er servert kommer kokken med sin dyp resonante bass. En utrolig stemmningsfylt fadokveld. Slik får vi vel aldrig oppleve igjen.

LISBOA
Fra marinaen i Cascais er det en kort togtur inn til Lisboa. En vakker by, særlig sett fra sine mange høyder. I nærheten av det gamle Sao Joao slottet finner vi en herlig hageterrasse-kafe, en oase av grønt og bast med et svært tre voksende midt inni. En hengende hage med loddrett utsikt nedover byen, utover havnen, mot havet. Tapas, hvitvin og postkort-skriving under svalende bast-tak. Godt å kunne nyte roen midt i en storby. Tilbake, bratt nedover mot havnen, hopper vi på en "gul-trikk", de små, artige by-trikker med vinduer uten glass. Vi humper nedover de smale steilagte gatene, Bergens-bratte.

SEVILLA
Litt utenom vår seiler-rute. Men det går busser til Sevilla fra Lisboa. En fem-timers tur for å besøke Ørnulfs niese, mann og barn, bosatt der. Vi får sett en enestående "arabisk" by og oppleve in ung, spansk, småbarnsfamilies hverdag. Med en- til to-timers siesta som forlenger arbeids- og barnehagedagen. Og "middag" lenge etter vår leggetid. "Tidsklemmen" er intet ukjent begrep her, heller!
Byen er preget av sine to sammenflettete kulturarver: den arabiske og middelaldervestlige. Islamske moskeen blir kristen katedral, men den beholder intrikate mønster og fargerike fliser. Islamske appelsinhager, "sahn", blir klosterhager og minarettårn blir klokketårn. Sevilla har landets største katedral: "La oss bygge en katedral så stor at fremtidige generasjoner tror vi er gale", sa de, og gjorde nettopp det! De beholdt minareten, nå klokketårn, "Giralda". Her går man opp det firkantete tårnet på lange ramper. Det sies at arabiske fyrster ville ri hesten til topps i tårnet for å rope ut seieren over fienden!

OBIDOS
Av de andre byer vi fikk sett på den iberiske halvøya var Fatima i Portugal en skuffelse, gigantomanisk og steril. Men andre gotiske katedralers enkle himmelstrebende linjer var skjønne. Regnbuelys fra blyglassvinduenes spiller på lys granitt.
Festningsbyen, OBIDOS, omsluttet med høye skytterskår-murer og tårn, inneholder en hel levende by med fargeglade murhus. Men nå er det på tide å dra tilbake til havet...

SEILAS: MADEIRA, MED PORTO SANTO
Nå seiler vi til Afrika. Til de første av de mange vulkanske øyer uti Atlanteerhavet som vi kommer til å seile til. Lille Porto Santo og "storebror", Madeira har ennå sin europeiske (Portugesiske) kultur, men er afrikansk i sin geologi. Det blir en rask "jogg", i seks knopps fart, med en god kuling bakfra, på vår fire-døgn krossing. Som en "Biskaya".
Vi ankommer Porto Santo ved midnatt, i fullmåneskinn, og ankrer i havnebassengen.
Porto Santo har gyldne strender og Madeira har "levados". På begge øyene går vi turer i dette bratte vulkanterrenget.
I Porto Santo heter byen der Vila Baleira, ca. som Flekkefjord i størrelse har den et vakkert, litt kupert, bysentrum. Gatene er "portugesisk" steinsatt i ulike mønstre av svart vulkanstein, hvit marmor. Der er tre utendørs scener. Vi fikk se alle i bruk under den årlige tredagers "Columbus Festival". Der var renessansekor og fløyte- og strengeorkester; der var moderne ballett, vandrende sjonglører, klovner, flere vandrende "14-hundredtallsmusikanter". Hovedtorvet ved kommunehuset hadde digital "kulturkalender"; noe for Flekkefjord? Vi kan anbefale et kommunalt besøk til denne rike (kulturelt!) portugesisk utpost.

MADEIRA: Enda en vulkansk øy, bare grønn! Et sinnrikt nettverk av "levados", irrigasjonskanaler, fører vannet fra den alltid skydekt nord til den tørre sørsida, til banan- og vingårdene. Disse meterbreie rennene, ca 1400 kilometere av dem, går på tvers rundt de nesten loddrette vulkanfjellsidene. En like smal sti rett ved siden langs dem. Inni en urskog av laurbær og "Erika-lyng"-trær! Vår lilla høstlyng er et urtre her. Fossene er høye og gjemt inni rester av vulkankratere. Enorme, grønne amfiteatere! Hadde enten en stegosaurus eller en Hobbit plutselig dukket opp langs stien hadde det ikke virket unaturlig. Stiene er midtveis plassert i stupbratte fjellskråninger. Av og til finnes et slags rekkverk, en vaier. Men, her og der kan fundementet mangle, det henger i løse lufta, for så å forsvinne helt. Fosser vasker deler av stien ut, og lommelykt må du ha med for de mange våte uthogde tunneler som finnes langs stiene. Verdt det? Absolutt!

FUNCHAL
Verre enn "himmelstiene" er kanskje kabelbanen, som svever høyt over to daler, fra den botaniske hagen til fjellet over hovedstaden, Funchal. Vertigo burde du helst ikke ha!
Den store botaniske hagen er fabelaktig, men sine kaktus- og palme-landskaper og alle de utroligste blomstrende busker og trær. Jeg faller for den flotte paradisblomsten i sine papegøyefarger!
Seilere som ikke synes det gjør noe å ligge som båt nummer fire eller fem ut fra en murvegg, med vekslende vannstand, kan bo nesten gratis midt i sentrum av Madeiras koselige hovedstad. Palmetrær og restauranter ligger bortover den fine "sjøsiden". Sentrum er en brattere versjon av Bergen, med palmetrær!

TIL LANZAROTE, KANARIØYENE
Det ble en 3 1/2 dagers silkeseilas til Kanariøyene. På 3. dagen lagde vi pannekaker. Ellers en velsignet begivenhetsløs ferd. Vel fremme, nær Playa Blanca, sør på Lanzarote fortøyer vi i den staselig "Rubicon" marinaen. Det er en skikkelig "Kardemommeby", med en Tobias-tårn og små murhus og palmetrær. Kafeer, merkebutikker og gratis svømmebasseng for seilere i denne lille oasen.
Lanzarote er ellers en naken, rust-rød vulkanøy, med grotter, varmtvannskilder og en fin lav hvit-murhus byggeskikk ennå intakt. Det er takket være arkitekt/kunstner, Cesar Manriques innsats i byregulering. Vi har opplevd øya før, så det blir ikke noe grottevandringer og kamelriding denne gangen. Men jeg får øve meg i snorkling i svømmebassenget!

TENERIFE
Det er en overnattsseilas til Sta.Cruz på Tenerife, som virker nesten som en søndagsseilas på fjorden, i forhold til våre nye erfaringer!
Nå nærmer det seg Atlanterhavs-kryssingen. Det er her vi skal handle stort, alle "tørrvarer" for turen over. Men, "tørrvarer"? Vi har to svære handlevogner, den ene var haugen med vann i 5 liter dunker, "langtids"-melk, juice, ølbokser og vinflasker. Den andre vognen har alt annet: skinke og biff-i-boks, tørkepapir, flere fyrstikker, spansk paella krydder, bønner, sardiner, tunfisk... Joikakaker fra Norge har vi allerede. Hvordan vet man at det er nok syltetøy? Hvor mange liter vann kommer vi til å drikke? I varmen? Vi har en ukemeny som vi ganger med seks uker. Med noen variasjoner, da. Gulost skjærer vi i strimler og senker i glass med olje, som Fetaost. Egg må snus annen hver dag for å ikke bli dårlige. Noe får vi fylle opp på Kapp Verde-øyene, men ingen synes å vite særlig om tilbudet der.

Før avreisen kjører vi et par dager rundt Tenerife. Vi er i fjellområdet, Anaga i nord og Teide Nasjonal Park, med den største vulkantoppen, Teide. Det er en enkel sak å komme innen 200m av toppen, hvis man ikke har skrekk for kabelbaner. Det var kaldt og guffent, og blåste kuling den dagen vi dro for å kikke på Teide. Vi skulle ikke til topps der, men heller gå til et månelandskap litt lengre nede. Der møtte vi enorme organiske steinformasjoner, hvite som kritt. En spøkelsesversjon av de ellers så svarte "roques", gamle vulkantopper som stikker loddrett opp fra den grønne og fuktige urskogen.

LA GOMERA
En tolv-timers seilas heilt til San Sebastian på La Gomera. Dette blir vår siste lille bit av "Europa", utenfor Africa, før vi seiler til Kapp Verde-øyene. Der møter vi den virkelige Afrika! Men her på den koselige, lille byen, San Sebastian, blir vi en uke først. Vi møter en torv med "tak" av høye gamle trær med et utrolig tett bladverk, som beskytter både mot den sterke sola og mot regnbøyer. (Nå kan du angre, Flekkefjord!) Spisse vulkantopper omringer byen og en fin, svartsand-strand er midt i byens sjøside.
En dag kjører vi en rundtur på denne lille øya. Vi er oppe på dens høyeste topp, "Garajonay" (1,487m). Turen opp er ikke verre enn til Søylandsvarden.
Før vi setter seil mot Kapp Verdeøyene handler vi inn ferskvarene: brett med egg, grønne epler, grønne bananer, grønne tomater... Og, fra den lokale tyske "kolonien", solid hjemmebakt rugbrød. Kan også brukes som slagvåpen mot sjørøvere, sier Ørnulf!

KAPP VERDE ØYENE
Nå forlater vi den siste rest av "Europa" og gir oss i kast med en ukes seilas uti Atlanterhavet. Den neste arkepelago av vulkanske fjelltopper har en tydelig afrikansk vri. Nordøstbrisen er lett. Vi bruker motor imellom. Men det er tydelig tegn på at vi nærmer oss en stødig passatvind.
Den første øya vi møter i de "windward" øyene er Sal. Her er der ingen marinaer, ingen "chandleri" med båtutstyr til salgs. "Piloten", båtguideboken, er mer skeptisk enn positiv, og full av advarsler.
Derfor blir øyene en slik positiv overraskelse! Et Lite Stykke Afrika langt ut til havs. Murhusene er små, nøn fargerike, noen falleferdige, mange uferdige. De mange emigrantene som bygger hjem å komme tilbake til, ikke ulik "Amerika-hus" på Sørlandet! Folket er greie og hjelpsomme på alle vis. Vi får en kjempeopplevelse!
På den neste øya, Sao Nicolao, er vi en tur inni landet. En guide og vi sitter på benker oppå lasteplanet til en pick-up. Vi humper av sted langs smale, bratte veier. De er lavasteinbelagt nær byen, og ellers bare på de aller bratteste partier. Vi rutsjer på berg- og dalbane-veier, uten antydning til rekkverk, ved juv og stup, mens vi humper opp og ned oppe på det åpne lasteplanet. Inni landet finnes små landsbyer med kun eselstier. Kvinnene bærer vannkanner på hodet langt oppi dalen hver dag. Vasken ligger til tørks oppå glatte steiner. I denne dalen er denne vulkanske ørken langt mer frodig. Bananer og sukkerør dyrkes.
Ut mot havet får vi sett grottør og amfihuler med fantastiske steinformasjoner. Tårn og søyler, stein "stablet" trappevis, som stabler av svære fat. De er spist og fortært av vind og bølger, i år etter år etter år. Der er bassenger det går an å bade i når tidevannet tillater. For oss blir det bare utrolige bilder!
Til Mindelo, en ganske stor by på vår siste "windward" øy, Sao Vincente, får vi en rask seilas. Det er delvis motvinds fra den ubebodde øya der vi ankret inatt, Sta. Lucia. Inn mot Mindelos havn, Porto Grande, øker vinden til opp i 35 knop. Det kan bli spennende å ankre blant de ca. 50 seilbåter der, i sterk kuling. Men, innenfor moloen, blir vannet smulere, om det blåser hardt. Vi dropper anker og det sitter. Vi kan dette nå!
Snart får vi selskap av to norske "seilervenner", den ene 100 år gammel Colin Archer redningsskjøyte, "Christiania", den andre heter "Veto". Disse to har, i tillegg til de voksne, seks stykker mannskap under 12 år!

SPRANGET! ATLANTERHAVSSEILASET
En lørdag, 3. desember, tar vi spranget. Med et nytt lass egg, hvit geitost og bananer ombord drar vi ankeret og setter stevnen mot vest. Det blir en annerledes advent. Mørkeblått, hvitspekket hav i en bølgende sirkel rundt oss, en lyseblå himmel med store hvite skyer om dagen, enten en stjernespekket svart himmel, eller, etterhvert, en melkehvit natt med fullmåne. Varm luft, natt som dag. Det er over 27 grader i vannet.
Både tøy og tallerkener, og oss selv, vaskes i saltvann med en knegen søtvannsskyll til slutt. Brød bakes på gyngende grunn, mens mel og gryter hopper og spretter. Vi drar inn den ene dorado (gullmakrell) etter den andre. De er store, ca. 4kilo, med flott hvitt kjøtt. Det blir store, tjukke fileter å steke.
Vi har ofte kontakt med noen hollandske seilbåter på den første halvdelen av turen. Kjekt å få ferske værmeldinger fra deres PC, via satelitt.
Noen dager blir det vindstille og vi kjører gjennom dem, ca. 30 timer. Men for det meste får vi nordøstlige vinder, sterkere etterhvert. Vi kommer skikkelig inni kraftig passatvind den siste uken. Vi er tross alt på Christopher Columbus' yndlingsrute til "India"! Det heter ellers:
"Dra sør til smøret smelter, så vest mot solnedgang".
Så gjør vi det, og får fint bør. Dette er en behagelig, litt rullende medvindsseilas. Det er tid til å lese en bok eller to, selv om nattevaktene tar 12 mørke timer.
Nå blir det jul i Karibien i år. Pynter de palmetrær med lys? Mens de fleste skandinaviske båter feirer "norsk" jul på øya Bequie, blir vi på Bridgetown i Barbados. Det er da spennende å ha en helt annerledes jul denne ene gangen. Men tankene flyr til familie og venner hjemme. Og til Flekkefjord! God jul og godt nytt år ønskes alle!

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Sunday, December 18, 2005

24 hrs!


Well, the ETA is actually 27 hrs. at mid-morning. But there's a definite feeling of "land-fever" on board. Fantasies flourish: a whole night's sleep, more or less horizontal floors, chocolate-mint ice cream, cold beers...

Meanwhile civilization encroaches. A bright orange oil tanker passes close by, portside. He acknowledges our unfurled flag by giving us a blow on his horn.

See you soon in Bridgetown!

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Saturday, December 17, 2005

Back on track


We gybed twice last night to zig-zagging back the 23nm we have sailed north of our course. Now we're right on the rumb-line from Mindelo to Bridgetown, Barbabos. And we are the only boat in sight.

Two force-five days more and we're anchored!

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Friday, December 16, 2005

Just a "Biscay" left!

We're 430nm from Barbados, less than a "Bay of Biscay" crossing. "Peanuts!", she said, rather recklessly. Right now we're racing round the last laps, just three more days? And nights?

Meanwhile it's sunny, a pleasant temperature in the fresh breeze. And calm-ish seas.
Today's entertainment: at 08:30, a large sailboat with full main and spinnaker out crosses in front of us. Something to digest with Scottish oatmeal porridge for breakfast.

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Thursday, December 15, 2005

Ice clouds above; swimmimg pool warm waters

Our 13th day out and we're already starting the count-down.

There are wispy ice-clouds above and a strong following wing pushing us along at a good gait. We're galloping at 6,3 knots through water and even 10 knots on downhill slides. As me eat "lapper", small pancakes, with rasberry jam.

The seas are not pancake-flat, more like the swimming pool on a boistrous Saturday.

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Wednesday, December 14, 2005

In "Lille-Per" we trust!

With the autopilot's demise we put all our faith in "Lille-Per" to steer. We gybe in light winds, to eat up a 15nm northerly deviation. We veer out north or south depending on which tack our full main and poled out genoa are on.

Lovely day, warm with cooling winds. The waves give a long flowing motion to the boat today. A good day to make Paella. There's left-over dorado, Spanish "marisco" and spices. We start with making proper Spanish rice.
The sun sets slowly, giving the sea a golden "dorado" sheen. the moon is already up in the east. Full and shining white among the pink-turning-purple clouds. The end of our first day without seeing or hearing, on the vhf radio, any other boat.

Alone in our circle-horizon, as Ørnulf starts reading "The Life of Pi"..

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Tuesday, December 13, 2005

"Dad fishes;mom bakes bread"

I'm not really sure which is most unpleasant. Kneading bread in a gyrating, bouncing kitchen, with bowls and flour flying, or cutting the blood and gore out of the beautiful golden dorado.

Imagine that everything you do, night and day for about three weeks is on a racing roller coaster. And you're driving it at the same time.
But today, more lovely fish fillets and warm fresh bread; this roller coaster has a good kitchen.

The autopilot, an old "autohelm" decides to die today. With "Lille-Per", wind-pilot plugging away it doesn't feel like a catastrophe.

Yet.

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Monday, December 12, 2005

Half way!

We've passed the half-way mark. From Mindelo, Cape Verdes, to Bridgetown, Barbados it's just over 2000nm. We have under 1000 left! More celebrating. Today with Norwegian "Rømmegrot" (sour cream porridge). Without the sour cream.

The sea is calming down. The wind's still up so sailing is good. With "Lille Per" steering Oernulf reads Gabriel Garcia Marquez' "One hundred Years of Solidude". This is hopefully only about 18 days of solitude!
I'm reading Yann Martell's "Life of Pi" as we and our circle world move west. I recognize scenes of flying fish and dorados. Hope there's no Royal Bengal Tiger aboard our little boat. Not sure about maybe a brown bear? There's someone aboard who's getting very clever at fishing and someone has been at the blueberry jam again.
Hmm?

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Sunday, December 11, 2005

Light in the Night

4am: we have the diminishing lights of the two Dutch boats to port, when a new light appears dead ahead. Another sailboat? But the light becomes two, then three. Bulk carrier. And it slides down the radars cursor line towards us. Just slightly to port for the moment we expect his red port light to come into view. Nope, green. Hmmm. We're overtaking a bulk carrier? In any case we change course to port as we see his broadside blocking our view. We don't discuss with "brick walls"!
Some ocean sailors manage to sleep through their nights, no watch on deck. I'd think twice about that now.

Bath day today. The black-sack water is sun warmed on the forward deck. Washed and dry just in time. Suddenly the wind's up and down comes the spinnaker pole on the genoa, and in with two reefs in the main. (Chinese?Translation: we reduce the amount of sail out so the boat won't be so tippy.) The wind is up to 35 knots and the wave height increasing. As the evening approaches.

The night is an oil painting by an 1800's Romantic: Sublime! An almost full moon makes for a bright silvery sea, between the gusty clouds and dark downpours.

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Saturday, December 10, 2005

Rocking, rolling and re-fueling

A red sun rising in our wake. Our Dutch guardian angels to port. And a feathery breeze on the nose. The babyblue sea as calm as the kiddies' wading pool.

At 9am we've been sailing exactly one week: cause for celebration! Let's polish off the brownies. We've sailed 795nm since Mindelo in the Cape Verdes. We're still becalmed and motoring. The day starts with re-fuelling diesel, forward on the deck. Even in calm times there's always some wave that pitches or yaws you just as your aiming for the funnel.

Very
funny. Have to keep the detergent handy.

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Friday, December 09, 2005

A calm day, very calm



There they are, both "Lady Jean" and "Catch 22', just on our starboard side, slightly astern. That should make VHF contact easy!

A calm day, As in becalmed. But with a confused rolling motion. We motor mostly through the slightly bumpy waters, hoping for more wind later on. We motor. Sail. Motor. Back and forth as the unstable winds come and go. Where are our steady trades?
Baking new bread in the skillet, one round loaf. Warm, fresh bread with Cape Verde margarine melting into it. Mmmm.

At night the green starboard lights of our Dutch sailor-friends follow to port. We all motor on.

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Thursday, December 08, 2005

Squalls and brownies

The fisherman is pleased. We pull in another big dorado today. Before breakfast. The trick is to squeeze enough 96% spirits into its gills that it gives up (the spirit?!) without a fight. And without too much of a blood-bath in the teak benched cock-pit. But nothing buckets of salt water can't erase.
Besides more fresh fish we have brownies today. Even an easy mix can be exciting when you bake it in a roller coaster. We add walnuts and chopped figs from the Cape Verdes shop.

Squalls! With the night the cooling clouds let go of their loads of water. On the radar we can see them, looking like messy ink blotches lined up in front of us. Mid squall there's no wind, just a confused sea. Otherwise the wind's up to 25, 30 knots to accompany the deluge. The warm deluge. The sea water is 26,7 degrees.

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Trade Winds Blow, "Babette"'s shanty


Sailing into the night
-Trade winds, blow!
Headland sinks out of sight
-Westward, ever westward, tradewinds, blow!

Sailing through the night,
-Trade winds, blow!
North Star, our windward light,
-Westward, ever westward, tradewinds, blow!

A dark sea, moonless night,
-Trade winds, blow!
A million stars blazing bright,
-Westward, ever westward, tradewinds, blow!

Red sun, astern will rise,
-Trade winds, blow!
Warm wind, by her side,
-Westward, ever westward, tradewinds, blow!

Sailing through the day,
-Trade winds, blow!
Round the boat, dolphins play,
-Westward, ever westward, tradewinds, blow!

Plowing through the sea,
-Trade winds, blow!
Our little ship, you and me,
-Westward, ever westward, tradewinds, blow!

Leaping o'er the waves,
-Trade winds, blow!
Little boat, bold and brave,
-Westward, ever westward, tradewinds, blow!

Unknown lands beyond,
-Trade winds, blow!
Behind our wake is gone,
-Westward, ever westward, tradewinds, blow!

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Wednesday, December 07, 2005

Into the frying pan

We gybe the mainsail. For the first time these four days. The wind is a little north of east, right on our tail and we have to zig-zag to keep on course.
Yesterday a greedy fish swallowed our "squid" and made off with it. Today, two fish. One, a flying fish, tried to navigate its own way into the frying pan! It flew down the companianway right into the "saloon". Barely missing the skillet.
But just before dinner we haul in another dorado. Fresh fish for dinner today! This time with fried potato-boats, onions, winter squash and peppers. Can't complain.

Today we make contact whith one of the dutch boats, "Lady Jeane", in our vicinity. She and "Catch 22" are also heading for Barbados from Mindelo. They share weather info with us, nice to know we're south of some more stormy weather up towards the Canaries.

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(As "Babette" and her little crew of two swirl around in their own little world, reality is not too far away.)

Hurricane Epsilon was a long lasting hurricane of the 2005 Atlantic hurricane season in late November and early December over the central Atlantic. Hurricane Epsilon was the twenty-seventh tropical or subtropical storm and the fifteenth hurricane of the season and was one of the strongest Atlantic hurricanes ever recorded so late in the year.

Hurricane Epsilon developed from an extratropical storm on November 29

( Babette: Anchors at St. Lucia, an uninhabited Cape Verde island; the wind blowing up in the high 20’s in the anchorage, strong fall-winds).

in a hostile environment in the middle of the Atlantic. It reached hurricane strength on December 2

(Babette: last day in São Vicente, Cape Verde’s; Dec.3rd, 09:00 we slip land, and head for the Caribbean, 1990nm away, with only vhf radio communication onboard)

despite a highly hostile environment. Epsilon then held onto hurricane status for several more days, frustrating the forecasters of the National Hurricane Center, before finally dissipating on December 8.

(Babette: December 7th,16:oo, vhf contact with Dutch boats, “Lady Jean” and “Catch 22”. They read weather forecasts from grib-files, and give us their position And agree to make contact tomorrow.).

Thankyou Wikipedia for the Hurricane information.

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Tuesday, December 06, 2005

Fresh bread!

We pole out the genoa and sail, goose-winged, at 4 1/2 to 5 knots. The seas have a deeper trough, the crests sometimes blocking the view to the horizon. Still, on our 4th day out, no cause for sea sickness.

Somewhere, not visible in our little circle-horizon, there are a couple dutch sailboats. We know because we can here them chatting on the VHF radio. And a large sailboat with a bright spinnaker, red, turquise with a big yellow bird, flies by. Looks like they're heading towards Brazil. Their spinnaker would do well in the carneval.

I bake bread today. In the skillet, another first. A half a bag of Norwegian "sunflower bread" mix. Yum-yum.

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Monday, December 05, 2005

Fresh Fish!

On a broad reach we have the main and the genoa both to port. We're doing 4,5 knots through water. Is this the trades? Calm seas, hot sun, a decent blow. Not bad. A perfect day for a foredeck shower. Buckets of saltwater first then the fresh-water rinse from "The Black Bag", basking in the sun heating up. We bask and sun-dry ourselves on deck, letting dependable "Lille-Per" steer in the steady winds.

Meanwhile we have 50m fishing line out from the stern. Equipped with a bright red and orange "squid". Looks extremely poisonous. But apparently not to a DORADO (Norwegian: "gullmakrell"). Pulling on the squid we find a HUGE, well, a good-sized dorado attached by his jaws. Big fillets fried with onions. With rice, perfect!

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Sunday, December 04, 2005

A visit on board!

The sun climbs into our baby-blue dome. The seas, barely a ripple, as we zip along at about 3, 3 1/2 knots. Zipping for a snail. But we can enjoy breakfast on a rather horizontal deck. Fried eggs, tomatoes and peppers, cheese.
At 10am we try the genaker on the east, starboard side. Wow, 5 knots. Not bad in 8 knots wind. With the current we should make Barbados for Christmas.
Four hours later the winds have picked up and the genaker is taken down. Genoa up. Exercise is good.
Flying can be strenuous, too, it seems. Just ask the guest who just flew in. A white heron tried our cock-pit first, flying into the wind about 5, 6 times. It settles for the bow of the boat, more weather, but unoccupied. Feathers all puffed up, its long beak and black-button eyes tucked deep into his shoulders. He tries to get his sea-legs on the bouncing bow. Should we feed him? A sea-sickness tablet?? After a couple hours "rest" off he flies into the blue.

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Saturday, December 03, 2005

JUMP!

And we take the plunge. The undertow of the Atlantic has been pulling at us for some time now. And at the other sailors here,too. The die is cast, we've e-mailed our date and checked the weather.
We draw up the anchor and head out of the harbour early in the morning. Suddenly Eirill from "Veto" is at our side in their dinghy. She notices our departure and is speeding over with a little Christmas present for us, Wow! But, no shaking, or peeking!

One long blow in our brass horn and we exit Mindelo's Porto Grande. We sail west, leaving Sao Vicente and the Cape Verdes behind. We're out of Africa, heading towards the Caribbean on the other side of the Atlantic Ocean. It'll be about 20 days of westward sailing, hopefully in steady North-East trade-winds. This was Christopher Columbus' favorite route, via the Cape Verdes, to India!

After a four hour sail throuth the channel between Sao Vicente and the larger island, St. Antao, we meet "confused" seas, but no wind. Rolling and pitching and getting nowhere. And very uncomfortable, too. I take sea-sickness tablets for the first time since...? and Oernulf starts the motor. This is the famous trade-winds? I'm going to love this crossing.

But three hours of motoring bring us to calmer waters. We pole out the genoa to some real sailing. And time for dinner. The Cape Verde fresh produce isn't quite the Canary quality. It's riper, so we have to go for it now or never. We "wok" a good stew, eat and wash up before sunset and darkness. At 6pm.

The dark hours are divided into three hour watches, two each, between 7pm to 7am. The other sailboats that left about when we did have dispersed and disapeared. A cargo ship passes behind us on the first watch. That's it. Then it's just us, not even a moon. But Orion rises on my first watch, the Big Dipper on my second. That's the entertainment on this Saturday night.

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Friday, December 02, 2005

Last day before the Jump!

Today we check out of the Mindelo harbour, out of the Cape Verde Islands and out of Africa. Next stop: the Americas!
Just a few last errands, arrangements with other boats leaving about the same time. And lots of both hellos and good-byes.
We meet the young Polish "Ania" and "Asia" girls. Their under 10m boats bound for an around-the-world sail. We meet the "Norwegian" (Risoer/Bergen) couple on the American boat, "Tropic Bird" sailing for St. Lucia. They moved to America about when I came to Norway.

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Thursday, December 01, 2005

Blowing by: an empty dinghy, a small Polish boat

First an ownerless dinghy blows by. Two small Cape Verde boys, rowing a big wooden boat, tow it ashore. Then one of the two small Polish sailboats that just anchored beside us at night, drags its anchor and slips uncomfortably near cargo ship, "Vilma". The young two-girl crews of "Ania" and "Asia" manage the situation and re-anchor.

This morning we dinghy to town and shop: bread and good goat cheese, bananas and tomatoes at the mercado, Cape Verde canned beans and tins of tuna, figs, beer and water at the supermercado. We nay need some extra rations if we´re seriously be-calmed mid-atlantic.
I wouldn´t plan shopping all my supplies for the crossing here, not with our culinary habits, but it´s a great re-stocking spot for fresh food: fruit, veggies, eggs, cheese and bread. And for certain dry-goods(powdered milk, ultra-pasteurized yogurt, paper towels, a good variety of dried and canned beans) The prices aren´t bad and the Cape Verdians certainly need the trade, as we just as certainly can afford to trade here! We also replenish water (de-salinated) and diesel, which is cheap. And we have filters.

The Scandinavian contingency here, 100 year old coast-guard ketch, "Christiania" and Veto (with their total sum of six kids!) and the Swedish couple aboard the ketch, "Sulamitt" have all seen the good weather reports and plan to leave either Saturday or Sunday.

We´re betting on Saturday.

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