Levada walks and waterfalls

Water for wine-grapes and banana-palms, for everything in the sunny south, is guided down the slopes from the wet mountains in the North in open canals, levadas. They are about 60cm wide, in low stone walls. Along them are walking trails, often also about 60cm wide. Walking along a levada is basically level, but this almost horizontal route is often encircling an almost vertical volcanic mountainside!

The hike starts at Rabaçal. To get there we drive up towards Encumeada, up in a "Swiss" landscape of jagged mountain tops looking like a bad set of teeth. Milky clouds pour over and through the gaps, but dissipate in the heat of the green valleys below.

From Encumeada we drive over the large empty plateau, Paul da Serra. Cows grazing in what looks like might feed a goat. From a parking area filled with hikers' rental cars we walk down and down a long asphalt road to Rabaçal. It's possible to get a lift in a van, at a price. I'm sure it's worth it, for the return up! The view from the road is great: lush green valleys, with laurel and pine and Erica heather trees. Erica heather, at least in Norway and Scotland, is a low, creeping plant. Here in the more primeval Madeira, it´s a tree!

From Rabaçal we follow the signs to Levada do Risco, a short, easy walk, and with a 100m waterfall at the end. A great height, though not much water now, at the end of the dry season. So, back again to follow the Signs to Levada das 25 Fontes. Twenty-five waterfalls! First, to get to the other levada, we descend hundreds of lava-stone steps. Trying not to think about the ascent later! The wide path narrows to levada width, about 60cm. We have a wobbly wire, at times, as comfort, in case one should glance through the laurel and Erica trees, at the steepening mountainside. Again there are dramatic and cavernous settings for waterfalls at the end of the levada.It's the same tour back, except all the knee-shaking downhills are huffing and puffing uphills.

From the plateau, Paul da Serra, we drive down a lavastone cobbled road, more or less vertical, to Calheta, in second gear and pumping brakes. Staight down to the sea. The marina in the pleasant village of Calheta has a little sandy beach and a swell swaying the sailboats at the pontoons. Swedish "Christina" and "Eos", English "Lady of Lorien" and "Tamarisk" are pleased with the expensive marina.

The kids love the little beach!