S/Y Babette Sails to the Caribbean

S/Y Babette sails to the Caribbean, carefully avoiding the Pirates, and then sails back again to Norway.

The crewmembers: Shannon
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Saturday, May 27, 2006

Round Faial by Rental-car


"Sedna" and "Babette" split a Peugeot and set out to see this smallish island (173 km2). We head NW, up to Pta. dos Capelinhos. This is where the newest bit of the island popped out of the sea in 1957. First came clouds of steam and rock projectiles flying sky high. Eventually an island, 2 1/2 km big was formed. The eruptions lasted a year. The island became a peninsula, soon shrinking to just a square kilometer. During the eruption 300 houses were destroyed. The land in the west disappeared under meters of ash and rock. And half the population in the area, 15,000, emigrated to America. There's a tall, derelict, light-house standing in front of the dramatic volcanic cliffs. Pumice pebbles and sand still cover the area. Though the sea and storms are doing their best to strip the land of everything but the barest basalt. Hearty, tenacious plants are tugging the other way, holding on to the soil.

It's noon and time for a bite. Up in the NE, near Cedros, we find a cosy little café run by two German men, O Escoderijo. They've had the restaurant for two weeks, today. We wish them luck, and lots of customers! The food is good, with a German flavor. We had ice cream with hot berries out back in the little garden veranda.

Then we're off again. Heading up to the big caldeira, the crater named Cabelo Gordo. It rises 1043 meters high. There are trails that go around its 2km (diameter) rim. And trails that go down, and up again, huff, puff, into its empty bottom, 400 meters deep. But we settled on walking the 20, 30 step long tunnel from the car to the crater edge for a look down. (Since we're planning a hike up Pico tomorrow...)

Just before Horta, on our way back, we stop at some bright-red old windmills. With tall, sleek modern versions of same on the next ridge. There's a great view of Horta, town and harbor from the top here.
We've had a nice, sunny day. And now, across the bay, we can see Pico, Portugal’s highest mountain, with just a small ragged collar of clouds clinging to it.

That's where we'll be tomorrow.

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