Anchored in "Pirates Bay"

A corner of "Man-of-war Bay" is called "Pirates Bay". That's where we're anchored at 11am, by a little yellow beach under a jungely green hill. There are about 20 blue-water sailboats anchored, no charter boats! For the first time we get a close-up look at our VHF-"Radio Holland" friends on "Lady Jean" and "Catch 22". Our German friends on "Macani" are also anchored near us. On the far side is a Swedish "colony", with another Najad, old pals, "Eos".

"Man-of-war Bay" is a wide, sheltered bay, a huge green amphi. The thick tangle of green leaves from the bushes and trees reach down to the water's edge, except where a few empty white beaches lie waiting for the surf, between rocky headlands. A huddle of mostly wooden houses are dead-ahead in cosy Charlotteville.
What you notice first are the birds in the bay. The Frigates, with their long split tails, like overgrown swallows are soaring above. The Pelicans are balancing on the wooden fishing boats. That's when these birds of prey aren't nose-diving into the sea, always coming up with a catch. What's new for us is the stubby green parrots, light green against the darker foliage, squacking as they fly.
The town has a nice library and school, with football field mid-town, by the immigration/ customs office. Most of the other houses are small, some tiny. Along the sandy seafront, behind the moored fishing boats are small businesses, one or two rooms, a wash'n'dry business, some family-run restaurants and caf'es, or bars, an internet caf'e.
Our "Macani" friends, Felix and Monica, have us over for a sundowner with the young German couple an "Scampolo". And then we and "Macani" head for town and get a meal in the back-yard veranda with a "seaview" at "G's". It's part four-table caf'e and part storage room for broken chairs. It has bamboo walls painted blue and white, giving it a sort of modern respatex quality. The food is good, plentiful and hearty. And inexpensive: A plateful of beans, calalloo stewing, baked macaroni, rice, a salad and either chicken or fish. All on one plate. A beer, no glass. There's a bright light bulb in the ceiling and the "view" by 7pm is a black sack. But the surf is loud and clear.
After a good meal we progress to "Eastman's", a centrally located caf'e. The S.African boat, "Iguana" is providing guitar accompaniament to reggae/rapp, Belafonte ballads from some Charlotteville boys and half-remembered "Eagles" lyrics from the boat-folk. A good introduction to Tobago!