Smokey light in August: Viana Do Castelo

The heavy, black, smoke clouds have, for the moment, been blown out to sea. We scramble and do an ascent to Mount Luzia. And the Sacré Coeur Basilica at the top. A wide stone step path, within stone walls, leads straight up, through smoky, once green, woods. The eucalyptus is brown and dry, black at the base. Like a tinderbox waiting to be ignited. Fire engines are the only cars we see at the top. And, above, a yellow two-engine aircraft, scooping water and skimming the woods and basilica dome.

This Sacré Coeur Basilica is dedicated to Sta. Lucia. Constructed in the early 19th century, it's directly inspired by Paris' Montmartre original. Hill and all. There would have been a great view' without all this smoke, of green hills, yellow beaches and the sea to the west. The city, with its Eiffel Bridge is to the south. The old green riveted bridge, for cars and trains, does resemble Eiffel's tower in Paris. Only this one is horizontal. And lonnnnger.

Viana do Castelo has a quiet, lovely old town. 16th century facades, wide plazas, narrow cobblestone lanes and, no surprise, plenty of outdoor cafés. Not the same midnight family-dinner habits as in Spain, but very good food! Coming from Norway, the source of the cod for the Bacalão, we had to give that a try. There are at least 365 recipes I’ve heard. And I think they have one of the best ones at Restaurant á Covas in Viana. The good croquettes and bread that appear on the table, as an appetizer, almost ruined our appetite though. But we have an ocean of time. There are only two tables being served in the quiet narrow lane. And soon we are alone, in the dark evening.

But just then a guitar playing troubadour wanders up to our café, and plays some melancholy love songs. As we sip our last glass of wine.